Krazy StitcherNetting is one of the oldest bead stitches, and it makes an open, lace-like fabric rather than a solid one. Instead of beads packed side by side, the beads form loops around shared connecting beads, so the fabric drapes, curves and shows what lies behind it. It is a natural fit for collars, necklaces, bag bodies and ornament covers.
How netting is built
A net is made of small arcs of beads that meet at shared beads. Each row of arcs is worked by passing the thread through the connecting beads of the row below, and then stringing a new arc that peaks at the next connecting bead. The stitch is described by the number of beads in each arc: 3-bead netting, 5-bead netting, 7-bead netting. In many versions the peak bead of an arc is the one the next row passes through.
- 3-bead netting makes a tight, dense mesh. It is a good first netting stitch because there is little room to lose your place.
- 5-bead netting is the most common. It gives the classic diamond-shaped openwork.
- 7-bead netting is loose and airy, and suits ornament covers and vessel embellishment, where you want the surface to show through.
Directions of netting
- Horizontal netting is worked back and forth in rows, and is the usual choice for flat pieces such as collars and panels.
- Vertical netting is worked from the top down, and is popular for fringe-style earrings and bag straps.
- Circular netting starts from a center ring and radiates outward. Most netted ornament covers and doilies are made this way.
What you need
- Beads: 11/0 round seed beads are the usual choice. Delica beads work, but their square shape gives the net a different look. 15/0 beads make a finer net.
- Thread and needle: a thread and needle that pass through each bead hole several times.
- A looser hand than peyote. Netting is meant to be flexible, and tight thread distorts the diamonds and makes the net stiff.
Planning color in a net
Color in netting follows the structure. Because the beads in each arc are not packed into a grid, the picture reads more like a pattern of dots and diamonds than a bitmap image. That makes netting a poor fit for detailed pictures and a good fit for color stripes, gradients that move row by row, and accents on the connecting beads, which stand out because they are the points of the net. A common trick is to use one color for the connecting beads and another for the arc beads, so the diamond shapes show clearly.
Netting in Krazy Stitcher
Krazy Stitcher has Netting as its own stitch type, shown as an open diagonal lattice with rows offset by a third of a bead width, for a net-like, zigzag look. Use it to plan where color goes before you pick up a needle, then use the Counts tool to see how many beads of each color the chart lists. Treat the grid as a planning aid: netting varies with the number of beads per arc and the tension of your thread, so work a small test patch with your real beads to confirm the finished size before you commit to a large piece.
What to make with netting
Netting suits pieces that need to bend: necklaces, collars, amulet bag bodies, ornament covers, and decorative coverings over glass or wooden forms. The open structure conforms to curves without puckering.
Common mistakes
- Pulling too tight. The net should hang in relaxed arcs. Tight thread pulls the arcs straight and the fabric loses its openwork look.
- Passing through the wrong connecting bead. The row can drift, and the diamonds go out of line. Unpick to the last correct arc.
- Using a bead that is too slippery or too large. Heavy beads stretch a net over time; use light beads for large, open pieces.
- Skipping a test patch. Net size varies more with bead count and tension than most stitches.
To compare netting with solid stitches, see Loom vs Off-Loom Beading Techniques. For another flexible stitch, read Right-Angle Weave Explained, and for choosing bead sizes see Choosing the Right Bead Size.